Place of Eternal Mists On a morning in February, at sunrise, as I stood bowed over my camera, waiting for the sun to break through the mist for a decent photograph, it struck me that waiting is very much a mode of existence in Dullstroom . The fisherman in my lens was waiting, not as I was for the mists to clear, but for the tug of a fat trout on his line. The charm of this place nestling in the lap of the mountain peaks is that patience seems to be its enduring quality. Dullstroom, the little jewel of the Highveld in South Africa, lies unobtrusively on the left side of the highway connecting Johannesburg or Gauteng, as it is now called, and Lydenburg. Weekends, the village comes alive as luxury cars and 4X4s arrive from Johannesburg, and then the tackle shops begin to show unusual activity. These luxury vehicles you will eventually find parked outside the Dullstroom Inn, a little hotel full of old world charm that has escaped the ravages of progress. I was lucky to find a room there and it is advisable to book in advance. Otherwise you could phone Gerda (everyone knows her). She’s an ex-journalist who rents out a number of cottages and also doubles up as publicity officer. And there are some newly built hotels in the area to accommodate the increasing flow of tourists. Dullstroom is a pretty town, built at the turn of the century, with a definite European flavour. Whilst it offers still-water trout fishing, and no river trout fishing, it is regarded as the mecca of trout-fishing locally. It's not really part of the tourist route, not yet anyway, but it is a lovely town to visit, especially for the trout fisherman who'd like to sample South African waters. And what these waters have in common with fishing spots the world over is: trout do not respond on cue, even with a photographer waiting for the 'great shot', as I discovered. It took many minutes for the mists and cloud to clear revealing a sky that was particularly blue. On that morning, the fish did not bite, and the atmosphere in the pickup truck was almost gloomy as we returned to our hotel. Luckily, all anglers are optimists, and always the refrain rings in their ears, 'Tomorrow I'll get the big one.' It is a kind of intoxication that causes them to return, never to give up. True enough, the next day my friends were rewarded with a fair-sized catch, but what consoled us right then was the wonderful breakfast awaiting us at the Dullstroom Inn. It struck me as a fair arrangement. The fish do not always bite. The light, however beautiful, is not always quite on time. Life remains unpredictable. Here Nature is not always on cue but gently asserts itself. Rest assured however that Dullstroom is the trout fishing heaven of South Africa and winter up here on the Highveld is the best time for photography, with guaranteed clear skies at sunrise and sunset. When the farmers begin to burn their veld fires, the sky turns into a deep, burnt orange and there is nothing more spectacular than those sunsets. Trout flourish here for the simple reason that the waters, at this altitude, are consistently cold throughout the year. Wild rainbow trout of up to four kilograms and browns of up to 3,5 kilograms have been reported. With an altitude of over two thousand metres above sea level, the vegetation is sub-alpine and beeches, lindens and cherry trees beautify the streets of the town. The trees, some of them of historical interest, were planted by the town's European inhabitants a century ago. Aptly, they named Dullstroom the place of 'eternal mist' because its rocky outcrops, beautiful rugged landscapes and glistening waters reminded them of the Scottish Highlands. Two thousand metres up. Sky-high! This is where the red blood cell count increases, or so the athletes who come from Europe to train for the winter Olympics believe. It's farm country, and for those not obsessed by trout fishing, Dullstroom offers horse riding, trap shooting, and scenic walks. During the week Dullstroom finds itself in a state of repose, undisturbed by the tourist buses that roar past on their way to the Kruger National Park. Like all small towns, it seems to be in a perpetual state of waiting. At weekends however, things change. Smart cars from the big cities arrive and tourist buses offload their passengers. Accommodation is soaked up, bars are filled and sleepy bistros come alive. This is the ideal retreat for the city dweller with frayed nerves or for the honeymoon couple intent on romance. Dullstroom is a historical place, abounding with tales of Anglo-Boer battles, and houses built a century ago. It's also very friendly, the sort of place you want to return to. You may dream of going back as I did to sample the Dullstroom Inn's guinea fowl (oddly enough imported from France). Travellers from Britain will be gratified to see sticky toffee pudding on the menu and the blueberry pie is made from berries picked in the area. Needless to say, the trout is always fresh! After your meal you can huddle beside the log fire, warming your hands and sipping port as you listen to the soft murmuring of fishermen, who speak of trout and little else. In a country almost spoilt by the monotony of an abundance of sunshine and long hot days, it is a relief to discover Dullstroom, simply because it represents a change. The summer days are pleasant but it is wise to pack warm clothes when visiting Dullstroom whatever the time of year. Take extra warm clothing in winter when temperatures average about minus two to three degrees - and enjoy the log fires and extra blankets. For the past three years it has snowed in Dullstroom. Within half an hour all photographic stock had been sold out. Grown men acted like children building snowmen and people had snowball fights in the streets. It was difficult to distinguish the grownups from the children. Not so long ago the temperature plunged to minus twelve degrees so be warned, it can be cold up there. Dullstroom is essentially a place for fly fishermen. On the edge of the town is the municipal dam where visitors to the town may fish after obtaining a permit from one of the angling shops or from the local police station. Fishing in this dam costs fifty rand per day and a maximum of three fish may be taken. Fishing reports should be returned to enable the Dullstroom Fly fishers Association (DFFA) to continue to manage this dam scientifically for the enjoyment of all fly fishermen. A number of other dams in the vicinity offer still water fly-fishing and log-cabin accommodation. To me, fly-fishing seems very much a private affair. It has everything to do with balance as you cast your line further and further in the air, so that in the end it resembles some kind of arcane ritual, almost eastern in its serenity. It is a solitary business, this pleasure, as fly fishermen tend to separate when they fish, and here, high up in the mountains, the act of fly-fishing is performed in silence, and with great solemnity. There's no more silent time than pre-dawn. It is then, in this eerie silence, that the cry of a hadida passing overhead, is at its most poignant. Jonathan's Mavungana - African Fly fishing Safaris, will show the ropes, or take you fishing anywhere in the country. They can also initiate the novice in the art of falconry. You can contact him on 082 5733624, or email: jfishing@global.co.za. He offers photographic expeditions as well. - Back -    - Menu -    - Contact -