Franschhoek - The Art of Living
Franschhoek is the kind of place that makes you feel peeved, the way people feel peeved when they realise that, all their life, they had been missing something crucial. Most obviously, it’s the beauty of the place - this little narrow valley tucked in by its blanket of patchwork vineyards. And because there’s not that much room in this valley, the word ‘exclusive’ comes to mind. Here, admission is reserved. The valley’s water is good enough to be marketed and sold, and this has a lot to do with the fact that their is no industry to pollute the air. The Cape-Dutch homesteads, as if aware of their architectural elegance, are set back discreetly to avert the callow gaze, the pointing finger, the envious suburban cry of “Oh, look!” Franschhoek is, and always will be, exquisitely beautiful. The town itself, the buildings, too bespeak rustic refinement like a girl endowed with great natural beauty who dresses with care and taste. Here, for once, man has not let nature down. And the valley seems more blessed that other parts of the winelands. The waters of its dams are are pure enough to breed trout, and its temperatures cold enough. There are farms that offer still water trout-fishing. It’s best, though, to contact the publicity office at (021) 876 3062.
To enjoy the pleasures of Franschhoek is not cheap, and it is the sort of place that attracts the seasoned international traveller and businessman. Franschhoek promotes itself as being roughly within a twenty minute radius of no less than five golf courses. Whilst the mystique of the little white ball eludes me, I do understand that it is a game around which earth-shattering deals are discreetly made and that there is something singularly exhilarating about a little white ball soaring high and true through the air signalling a crisp hit and a good follow through. Franschhoek offers horse riding and mountain trails and it seems there is more than enough to do in this little valley. But primarily it is known for its wines.
Although there are a number of first rate wine estates in the Vignerons de Franschhoek, I have a fondness for wines from La Motte, and L'Ormarins, perhaps because they were among the first to introduce the new style of Sauvignon Blanc, freed from the tyranny of wood. Their unwooded Sauvignon Blanc wines are unwooded to produce a bouquet which is singularly fresh, and fragrant. La Motte’s tasting room is unusual, dominated by granite and glass in an architectural style that is both classical and serenely modern. It is well worth a visit.
In keeping with the air of the connoisseur that emanates from the valley, it is not surprising that Franschhoek has gained the reputation of offering the best cuisine in the Cape, and it echoes the French belief that what really matters in life is good food washed down by a bottle of wine or two. |  |
Chamonix which also makes its own wines, has a splendid restaurant, La Maison de Chamonix, which overlooks the valley and offers country cuisine. The farm also offers guest cottage-type accommodation.
Le Quartier Francais, which has been steadily growing in stature among gourmets, offers an eclectic blend of food with a provencal influence. It has a magnificent garden, which is not immediately obvious when you dine there - at least, it wasn’t to me. But I recommend a stroll through it. It is a country inn, or auberge, and the rooms look out over this garden, which borders on being called ‘wild’.
I think it would be apt to quote from two Australians who visited there, and this quote is contained in their brochure: “When the art of living replaces the illusion of tourism you have arrived at Franschhoek and at Le Quartier Francais.’
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